Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage · James Cook
Thursday, 13th. Stood in shore, with a light breeze at South by West until 1/2 past 5 o'Clock in the P.M., when, being a Mile and a 1/2 from the Shore, and in 16 fathoms, we tack'd and stood off. At this time the Extreams of the Land extended from North-East by East to West by South 1/2 South; this last was a low point, distant from us about 3 Leagues. We were right before a small Creek or Inlet into the low land, which lies in the Latitude of 9 degrees 34 minutes South. Probably it might be the same as Dampier went into in his Boat, for it did not seem to have depth of Water sufficient for anything else. In standing in shore we sounded several times, but found no soundings until we got within 2 1/2 Miles of the Shore, where we had 25 fathoms, soft bottom. We stood off Shore until 12 o'Clock, with the wind at South, then Tack'd and stood to the Westward 2 Hours, when the wind veer'd to the South-West and West-South-West, and then we stood to the Southward. In the Morning found the Variation to be 1 degree 10 minutes West by the Amplitude, and by the Azimuth 1 degree 27 minutes West; at Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 45 minutes South, Longitude 234 degrees 12 minutes West, and about 6 or 7 Leagues from the land, which extended from North 31 degrees East to West-South-West 1/2 West. Winds at South-South-West, a Gentle breeze.
Friday, 14th. Light Land and Sea breezes; the former we had from West by North, and only a few hours in the morning, the latter we had from the South-South-West and South. With these winds we advanced but slowly to the Westward. At Noon we were about 6 or 7 Leagues from the Land, which extended from North by East to South 78 degrees West; our Latitude by Observation was 9 degrees 54 minutes South. Course and Distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 68 degrees West, 24 Miles. We saw several Smoakes ashore in the P.M., and fires in the night, both upon the Low land and up in the Mountains.
Saturday, 15th. In the P.M. had the Sea breezes at South-South-West and South, with which we stood to the Westward until 8 o'Clock, when being about 3 Leagues from the Land, and having very little wind, we tack'd and lay her Head off Shore. At 11 o'Clock we got the Land wind at North by West, with which we steer'd South-West by West along shore, keeping about 4 or 5 Miles from the Land on which in the morning we saw several Houses, Plantations, etc. At 9 o'Clock we got the wind at North-East by East, a light breeze; at Noon we were about 2 Leagues from the Land, which extended as far to the Southward as South-West by West; our Latitude by observation was 10 degrees 1 minute South. Course and Distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon South 78 degrees 45 minutes West, 36 Miles.
Sunday, 16th. Light breezes from the North-East by East, with clear weather, except in the morning, when we had it cloudy, with a few small Showers of Rain. Steer'd along shore South-West and South-West by West until 6 o'Clock in the morning, when we steer'd West-South-West, and at 9, West, at which time we saw the Island Rotte right ahead. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 10 degrees 39 minutes, Longitude 235 degrees 57 minutes; the South end of Timor bore North-North-West, distant 5 or 6 Leagues; the Island of Rotte extending from South 75 degrees West to North 67 degrees West, and the Island of Anaboa as Dampier calls it, or Seman* (* Semao. This island lies off the Dutch settlement of Koepang or Concordia in Timor; but Cook was right in supposing he would have received but a cold reception there. The Dutch discouraged any visits at their outlying settlements. Rotte is a large island lying off the south-west end of Timor.) as it is called in the Charts, which lies of the South end of Timor, bore North-West. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday noon South 55 degrees 15 minutes West, 67 Miles. Dampier, who has given us a large and, so far as I know, an Accurate discription of the Island of Timor, says that it is 70 Leagues long and 16 Broad, and that it lies North-East and South-West. I found the East side to lie nearest North-East by East and South-West by West, and the South end to lie in the Latitude 10 degrees 23 minutes South, Longitude 236 degrees 5 minutes West from Greenwich. We run about 45 Leagues along the East side, which I observed to be free from Danger, and, excepting near the South end, the Land which bounds the Sea is low for 2, 3, or 4 Miles inland, and seem'd in many places to be intersected with Salt Creeks. Behind the low land are Mountains, which rise one above another to a considerable height. We continually saw upon it smoakes by day and fires by night, and in many places houses and plantations. I was strongly importuned by some of my Officers to go to the Dutch settlement at Concordia, on this Island, for refreshments; but this I refused to comply with, knowing that the Dutch look upon all Europeans with a Jealous Eye that come among these Islands, and our necessities were not so great as to oblige me to put into a place where I might expect to be but indifferently treated.
[Anchor at Savu.]
Monday, 17th. Winds Easterly, with which we steer'd West-North-West until 2 o'Clock, when being pretty near the North end of Rotte, we hauled up North-North-West, in order to go between it and Anaboa. After steering 3 Leagues upon this Course we edged away North-West by West, and by 6 we were clear of all the Islands; at this time the South part of Anaboa, which lies in the Latitude of 10 degrees 15 minutes South, bore North-East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Island of Rotte extending as far to the Southward as South 36 degrees West. The North End of this Island and the South end of Timor lies North 1/2 East and 1/2 West, distant about 3 or 4 Leagues from each other. At the West end of the Passage between Rotte and Anaboa are two Small Islands; the one lays near the Rotte shore and the other off the South-West point of Anaboa; there is a good Channel between the 2 of 5 or 6 Miles broad, which we came thro'. Being now clear of the Islands we steer'd a West course all night until 6 a.m., when we unexpectedly saw an Island* (* Savu. An island about twenty miles in length. It is but little visited or known by others than the Dutch to this day.) bearing West-South-West, for by most of the Maps we had on board we were to the Southward of all the Islands that lay between Timor and Java; at least there were none laid down so near Timor in this Latitude by almost one half, which made me at first think it a new discovery; but in this I was mistaken. We now steer'd directly for it, and by 10 o'Clock were close in with the North side, where we saw Houses, Cocoa Nutt Trees, and a Flock of Cattle grazing; these were Temptations hardly to be withstood by people in our situation, especially such as were but in a very indifferent State of Health, and I may say mind too, for in some this last was worse than the other, since I refused to touch at the Island of Timor, whereupon I thought I could not do less than to try to procure some refreshments here, as there appeared to be plenty.* (* Cook's utter indifference as to what he eat or drank made him regard privations in the matter of food with an equanimity which was not shared by the rest of his companions.) With this View we hoisted out the Pinnace, in which I sent Lieutenant Gore in shore to see if there were any Convenient place to land, sending some trifles along with him to give to the Natives in case he saw any. Mr. Gore landed in a small sandy cove near to some Houses, and was met on the beach by 8 or 10 of the people, who from both their behaviour and what they had about them shew'd that they had Commerce with Europeans; upon Mr. Gore's returning with this report, and likewise that there was No Anchorage for the Ship, I sent him away with both money and goods to try to purchase some refreshments, while we keept standing on and off with the Ship. At Noon we were about a Mile from the Shore of the Island, which extends from South-East to West-North-West, Latitude 10 degrees 27 minutes, Longitude 237 degrees 31 minutes West.
Tuesday, 18th. As soon as Mr. Gore landed he was meet on the beach by several people, both Horse and Foot, who gave him to understand that there was a Bay to Leeward where we could Anchor, and likewise get refreshments. Upon Mr. Gore's return with this intelligence we bore away for the Bay, in which we Anchor'd at 7 o'Clock in 38 fathoms Water, Clean sandy bottom. About a Mile from Shore the North point of the Bay bore North 30 degrees East, 2 1/2 Miles, and the South point or West end of the Island bore South 63 degrees West. Two hours before we Anchor'd we saw Dutch Colours hoisted in a Village which stands about a Mile inland, and at day light in the Morning the same Colours were hoisted on the beach abreast of the Ship. By this I was no longer in doubt but what here was a Dutch settlement, and accordingly sent Lieutenant Gore on shore to wait upon the Governor, or chief person residing here, to acquaint him with the reasons that induced us to touch at this Island. Upon Mr. Gore's landing we could perceive that he was received by a Guard of the Natives, and not Dutch Troops, and Conducted up to the Village where the Colours were hoisted last night. Some time after this I received a message from him, acquainting me that he was there with the king of the Island, who had told him that he could not supply him with anything without leave from the Dutch Governor, who resided at another part of the Island, but that he had sent to acquaint him of our Arrival and request.
[At Anchor. Savu.]
Wednesday, 19th. At 2 P.M. the Dutch Governor, and king of this part of the Island, with his attendance, came on board with Mr. Gore (he having left 2 Gentlemen ashore as Hostages). We entertained them at Dinner in the best Manner we could, gave them plenty of good Liquor, made them some considerable presents, and at their going away Saluted them with 9 Guns. In return for these favours they made many fair Promises that we should be immediately supplied with everything we wanted at the same price the Dutch East India Company had it; and that in the morning Buffaloes, Hogs, Sheep, etc., should be down on the beach for us to look at, and agree upon a price. I was not at all at a loss for Interpreters, for both Dr. Solander and Mr. Sporing understood Dutch enough to keep up a Conversation with the Dutchman, and several of the Natives could speak Portuguese, which language 2 or 3 of my people understood. In the morning I went on shore, accompanied by Mr. Banks and several of the Officers and Gentlemen, to return the King's Visit; but my Chief Business was to see how well they would perform their Promises in regard to the things I wanted. We had not been long ashore before we found that they had promised more than they ever intended to perform; for, instead of finding Buffaloes upon the beach, we did not so much as see one, or the least preparations making for bringing any down, either by the Dutch Factor or the King. The former pretended he had been very ill all night, and told us that he had had a letter from the Governor of Concordia in Timor, acquainting him that a ship (meaning us) had lately passed that Island, and that if she should touch at this, and be in want of anything, he was to supply her; but he was not to suffer her to make any stay, nor to distribute, or leave behind her to be distributed, any valuable presents to the inferior Natives. This we looked upon to be Afection that hardly answer'd any purpose, unless it was leting us see how the Dutch had insinuated themselves into favour with these people, which never could be his intention. However, both he and the King still promised we should have what we wanted, but pretended the Buffaloes were far in the Country, and could not be brought down before night. With these excuses we were obliged to be satisfied. The King gave us a dinner of boil'd Pork and Rice, served up in Baskets after their manner, and Palm wine to drink; with this, and some of our own Liquor, we fair'd Tolerable well. After we had dined our Servants were called in to pertake of what remain'd, which was more than they could Eat.
Thursday, 20th. We stay'd at the King's Pallace all the Afternoon, and at last were obliged to return on board without doing anything farther than a promise of having some Buffaloes in the morning; which we had now no great reason to rely on. In the morning I went on shore again, and was showed one small Buffaloe, which they asked 5 Guineas for. I offer'd 3, which the man told me he would gladly take, and sent a Message to the king to let him know what I had offer'd. The Messenger soon return'd, and let me know that I could not have it under 5 Guineas; and this I refused to give, knowing it was not worth one fifth part of the money. But this, my refusal, had like to have overset all we had before done, for soon after about 100 Men, some Arm'd with Musquets, others with Lances, came down to the Landing Place. Besides the officer that commanded this party, there came along with them a Man who spoke Portuguese, and I believe was born of Portuguese Parents. This man is here (as we afterwards Understood) as an Assistant to the Dutch Factor. He deliver'd to me the King's order, or rather those of the Dutch Factor, the purport of which was that we were to stay no longer than this day, pretending that the people would not trade with us because we wanted their provisions for nothing, etc.; whereas the Natives shew'd the greatest inclination imaginable to supply us with whatever they had, and were far more desirous of goods than money, and were, before this man came, selling us Fowls and Syrup as fast as they could bring these things down. From this and other Circumstances we were well Assured that this was all the Dutchman's doing, in order to extort from us a sum of Money to put into his own pocket. There hapned to be an old Raja at this time upon the beach, whose Interest I had secured in the Morning by presenting him with a Spy-glass; this man I now took by the hand, and presented him with an old broad sword. This effectually secured him in our Interest, for the Moment he got it he began to flourish it over the old Portuguese, and made him and the Officer commanded the party to sit down at his back side. Immediately after this trade was restored again for Fowls, etc., with more Spirit than ever; but before I could begin a Trade for Buffaloes, which was what we most wanted, I was obliged to give 10 Guineas for 2, one of which weigh'd only 160 pounds. After this I bought 7 more at a more reasonable price, one of which we lost after he was paid for. I might now have purchased as many as I pleased, for they now drove them down to the Water side by Herds; but having got as many as I well know'd what to do with, and likewise a number of Fowls, and a large quantity of Syrup, I resolved to make no longer stay.
Friday, 21st. We got under sail, and stood away to the Westward along the North side of the Island, and another smaller Island, which lies farther to the Westward, which last bore from us at Noon South-South-East, distant 2 Leagues.
[Description of Savu.]
Before we proceed any further it will be proper in this place to say something of the Island we have been last at, which is called by the Natives Savu. The Middle of it lies in about the Latitude of 10 degrees 35 minutes South, Longitude 237 degrees 30 minutes West. It may be about 8 Leagues in length from East to West, but of what breadth I know not, because I only saw the North side. There are, as I am told, 3 Bays where Ships can Anchor; the best is on the South-West side of the South-East point; the one we lay in, called Seba, lies on the North-West side of the Island. This bay is very well sheltered from the South-East Trade wind, but lays wholy open to the North-West. The Land of this Island which bounds the Sea is, in general, low, but in the Middle of the Island are Hills of a moderate height, and the whole is agreeably diversified with woods and Lawns, which afford a most pleasing prospect from the Sea. We were told that the Island is but indifferently water'd in the dry Season, especially towards the latter end of it, at which time there is no running Stream upon the whole Island, only small Springs, which are all at a distance from the Sea side. The dry seasons commences in March or April, and ends in November; the remaining 3 or 4 Months they have Westerly winds with rain, and this the time their Crops of Rice, Calivances, and Indian Corn are brought forth, which are Articles that this Island produceth.
They also breed a great Number of Cattle, viz., Buffaloes, Horses, Hogs, Sheep, and Goats. Many of the former are sent to Concordia, where they are kill'd and salted, in order to be sent to the more Northern Islands, which are under the Dominion of the Dutch. Sheep and Goats' flesh is dried upon this Island, packed up in Bales, and sent to Concordia for the same purpose. The Dutch resident, from whom we had this information, told us that the Dutch at Concordia had lately behaved so ill to the Natives of Timor that they were obliged to have recourse to this Island and others Adjacent for provisions for their own subsistance, and likewise Troops (Natives of this Island) to assist the Dutch against those of Timor. Besides the above productions, here are an Emmence Number of Palm Trees, from which is extracted the Palm Wine, as it is called, a very sweet, agreeable, cooling Liquor. What they do not immediately use they boil down and make Syrup or Sugar of, which they keep in Earthen Jarrs. Here are likewise Cocoa Nutts, Tamerind Trees, Limes etc., but in no great plenty; Indico, Cotton, and Cinnamon, sufficient to serve the Natives; these last Articles, we were told, the Dutch discourage the growth of.
The Island is divided into 5 Kingdoms, which have lived in Peace and Amity with each other for these hundred Years. At present the whole Island is partly under the direction of the Dutch East India Company, who have a Resident or Factor who constantly lives here, without whose leave the Natives are not to supply any other Nation with anything whatever; but the whole produce of the Island, besides what serves themselves, is in a manner the property of the Company. The Company by way of a Tribute oblige them to raise and pay Annually a certain quantity of Rice, Indian Corn, and Callivances, for which the Company makes Each of the Kings a yearly present of a Cask of Arrack, and some other Trifles; the live stock, Sheep and Goats' flesh, etc., they pay for in goods. The small Islands which lie about a League to the Westward of this pays Annually a Certain quantity of Arica Nutts, which is almost the only produce of that Island.
The Island of Rotte is upon the same footing as this of Savu; both these Islands, and the 3 Solors, belong to the Government of Concordia. From what we could learn of the Island of Timor, it seems to be much upon the same footing as it was in Dampier's time, which is that the Dutch possess little more of that Island than what lies under the Command of the Fort Concordia; the rest is in possession either of the Native Indians or the Portuguese. We were likewise told that the Island of Ende belongs to the Portuguese; that the principal settlement is at Larentucha, where there is a Fort and a good Harbour. We were told that the Concordia, on the Island Timor, is a free Port for Ships of any nation to touch at, where they would not only be supplied with refreshments, but Naval Stores also. Trading ships might probably meet with a good reception, but Kings' ships, I am perswaided, would be looked upon as Spys. For my own part was I only in want of refreshments, and obliged to touch at any of these Islands, I should prefer going to a Portuguese settlement before any of the Dutch, and when I was solicited by the Officers to call at Timor, I proposed going to one of the Portuguese settlements; but this Mr. Hicks made some Objections to, which was sufficient for me to lay it aside, as I had not the least inclination to touch any where till we arriv'd at Batavia, for my falling in with Savu was more chance and not design.
But to return to this Island, the Natives of which are of a Dark brown Colour, with long lank Hair; their Cloathing is a peice of Calicoe or other Cotton Cloath wrapped about their Middle; the better sort have another peice, which they wear over their Shoulders, and the most of them wear Turbands or Handkercheifs tyed round their Heads. They Eat of all the Tame Animals they have got, viz., Hogs, Horses, Buffaloes, Cocks and Hens, Dogs, Catts, Sheep and Goats, and are esteem'd much in the same order, as I have mentioned; that is, their Hog flesh, which is certainly as good as any in the world, they prefer before anything else; next to Hogs, Horses, and so on. Fish is not esteem'd by them, and is only eat by the common or poor people, who are allowed little else of meat kind.
They have a Custom among them, that whenever a king dies all the Cattle, etc., that are upon his Estate are kill'd, with which the Successor makes a feast, to which is invited all the principal people of the Island, who stay until all is consumed; after this they every one, according to his Abilities, make the young King a present, by which means he gets a fresh stock, which he is obliged to Husband for some time. The other principal men make also feasts, which are as extraordinary as these, for they seldom end so long as the giver has got anything left alive upon his Estate. They are said to be a people of good Morals, Virtuous and Chaste, each man having only one wife, which he keeps for life; Fornication and Adultry is hardly known among them. When a great Man marrys he makes presents to all his Wife's relations of European and other Foreign commodities to the value of 100 Rix Dollars. This Custom the Dutch East India Company find it to their Interest to incourage. They speak a Language peculiar to themselves, into which the Dutch have caus'd the new Testament to be Translated, and have introduced it, with the use of letters and writing, among them. By this means several hundred of them have been converted to Christianity; the rest are some heathens, and others of no religion at all, and yet they all stick up to the strict rules of Morality. They all, both Men and Women, Young and Old, Chew of the Beetle Leaf, Areca Nutts, and a sort of white lime, which I believe is made from Coral stone; this has such an effect upon the Teeth that very few, even of the Young people, have hardly any left in their Heads, and those they have are as black as Ink. Their houses are built on posts about 4 feet from the Ground; we asked the reason why they built them so, and was told that it was only Custom; they are, however, certainly the Cooler for it. They are thatched with Palm Leaves, and the Floors and sides are boarded.
The man who resides upon this Island in behalf of the Dutch East India Company is a German by birth. His name is Johan Christopher Lange. It is hard to say upon what footing he is here. He is so far a Governor that the Natives dare do nothing without his consent, and yet he can transact no sort of business with Foreigners either in his own or that of the Company's name; nor can it be a place of either Honour or Profit. He is the only white man upon the Island, and has resided there ever since it has been under the direction of the Dutch, which is about 10 Years. He is allowed 50 Slaves (Natives of the Island) to attend upon him. These belong to, and are Maintained by, the Company. He goes the Circuit of the Island once in 2 Months; but on what account he did not tell us. When he makes these rounds he carries with him a certain quantity of Spirit to treat the great men with, which, he says, he is obliged to look well after, otherwise they would steal it and get drunk; and yet, at another time, he told us that he never knew a theft committed in the Island; but some of the Natives themselves contradicted him in this by stealing from us an Axe. However, from their behaviour to us in general I am of opinion that they are but seldom guilty of these Crimes. This going round the Island once in Two Months is most likely to see that the Natives make the necessary preparations for fulfilling their engagements with the Dutch, and to see that the Large Boats or small Vessels are taken proper care of, which the Dutch keep in all the Bays of this Island in order to collect and carry the grain, etc., to the Ship which comes Annually here. They are likewise employed in carrying cattle, grain, etc., to Timor; and, when not wanted, they are hauled aShore into Houses or Sheds built on purpose. As I have mentioned Slaves, it is necessary to observe that all the great men have Slaves which are the Natives of the Island. They can dispose of them one to another, but cannot sell them to go out of the Island. The price of a Slave is a good, large, fatt Hogg, Horse, etc. I have before mentioned that many of the people can speak Portuguese, but hardly any one Dutch. From this it is probable that this Island was formerly under the Jurisdiction of the Portuguese, tho' the Dutch Government never own'd as much, but said that the Dutch had Traded here these hundred years past.* (* This account of the economy of Savu is a good example of Cook's powers of observation. He was only four days at the island, and yet gives us a good idea of the place and its inhabitants.)
[Sail from Savu.]
Saturday, 22nd. Winds at South-South-East, South-East, and East; a gentle breeze, which we steer'd West-South-West by Compass. At 4 o'Clock we discover'd a small low Island* (* Dama Island.) bearing South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues. The Island hath no place in any of our Charts: Latitude 10 degrees 47 minutes South, Longitude 238 degrees 28 minutes West. At Noon we were in the Latitude of 11 degrees 9 minutes South, Longitude 239 degrees 26 minutes West. Course and distance sail'd since yesterday noon, South 63 West, 67 miles.
Sunday, 23rd. Winds Easterly; a moderate breeze, which by noon brought us into the Latitude of 11 degrees 10 minutes South, Longitude 240 degrees 48 minutes West. Course and distance saild since yesterday at noon is West, 8 miles.
Monday, 24th. Winds at East and South-East; a moderate breeze, and fine, pleasant weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 2 degrees 44 minutes West. At noon our Latitude was 11 degrees 8 minutes South, Longitude 242 degrees 13 minutes West. Since we have been clear of the Islands we have had constantly a swell from the Southward which I do not suppose is owing to the winds blowing anywhere from thence, but to the Sea, being so determined by the portion of the Coast of New Holland.
Tuesday, 25th. Moderate breezes at South-East, and clear, pleasant weather. At Noon our Latitude was 11 degrees 13 minutes South, and Longitude 244 degrees 41" West.
Wednesday, 26th. Winds and weather as yesterday. At Noon Latitude in 11 degrees 10 minutes, Longitude 245 degrees 41" West.
Thursday 27th. Winds at South-South-East; a fresh breeze. In the evening found the variation to be 3 degrees 10 minutes West. At noon we were in the Longitude of 247 degrees 42 minutes West, and Latitude 10 degrees 47 minutes, which is 25 Miles to the Northward of the Log, which I know not how to account for.
Friday 28th. Winds at South-South-East and South-East; a fresh breeze and Cloudy, with some Showers of rain. At Noon Latitude observed 10 degrees 51 minutes South, which is agreeable to the Logg, Longitude in 250 degrees 9 minutes, West.
Saturday, 29th. Moderate breeze at South-East and clear pleasant weather, Steer'd North-West all this day, in order to make the land of Java. At Noon we were by Observation in the Latitude of 9 degrees 31 minutes South and Longitude 251 degrees 40 minutes West.
Sunday, 30th. Fresh gales and fair weather. In the A.M. I took into my possession the Officers', Petty Officers' and Seamen's Log Books and Journals, at least all that I could find, and enjoin'd every one not to divulge where they had been.* (* These logs are now in the Public Record Office. Mr. Green's log ends on the 2nd October. Not being an officer, Cook doubtless overlooked it at first. This log should by rights have been returned to Mr. Green, but as he died shortly after leaving Batavia, it has found its way, with the others, to the Record Office.) At noon our Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at noon, is North 20 degrees West, 126 Miles, which brought us into the Latitude of 7 degrees 34 minutes South and Longitude 252 degrees 23 minutes West.
[October 1770. Enter Sunda Strait. ]
Monday, 1st October. First and latter parts fresh breezes at South-East and fair weather; the Middle squally with Lightning and rain. At 7 p.m., being then in the Latitude of Java head, and not seeing any land, assured us that we had got too far to the Westward; upon which we hauld up East-North-East, having before Steerd North by East. At 12 o'Clock saw the Land bearing East, Tack'd, and stood to the South-West until 4, then stood again to the Eastward, having very unsettled squally weather which split the Main Topsail very much, and obliged us to bend the other; many of our Sails are now so bad that they will hardly stand the least puff of Wind. At 6 o'Clock Java head, on the West end of Java, bore South-East by East, distant 5 Leagues; soon after this saw Princes Island, bearing East 1/2 South. At 10 o'Clock saw the Island of Cracatoa* (* The great eruption, and consequent destruction of the larger part of this island in 1883, will be remembered. It lies in the centre of Sunda Strait.) bearing North-East, distant 7 Leagues; Princes Island extending from South 53 degrees East to South by West, distant 3 Leagues. Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon is North 24 degrees 30 minutes East, 70 Miles. Latitude in per Observation, 6 degrees 29 minutes South, Longitude 251 degrees 54 minutes; but either our Longitude must be erroneous or the Straits of Sunda must be faltily laid down in all Books and Charts; but this no doubt we shall have an opportunity to settle.* (* Cook's longitude was in error nearly three degrees. No lunars had been taken since they left Savu, and there is a current running westward. It is a good example of the error of dead reckoning, even with the most careful of navigators.)
Tuesday, 2nd. In the P.M., had the wind at South-South-East, South-East by South and South-South-East, with which we stood to the Eastward close upon a wind. At 6 o'Clock the Hill on Princes Island bore South-West by South, and Cracatoa Island, North 10 Miles; in this situation had 58 fathoms, standing still to the Eastward. At 8 o'Clock had 52 fathoms, muddy bottom, at 10 23 fathoms. By 4 in the morning we fetched close in with the Java shore in 15 fathoms, then steer'd along shore. At 5 it fell Calm, which continued with some Variable light Airs until noon, at which time Anger Point bore North-East, distant 1 League, and Thwart-the-way Island North. In the morning I sent a Boat ashore to try to get some fruits for Tupia, who is very ill, and, likewise, to get some grass, etc., for the Buffaloes we have still left. The Boats return'd with only 4 Cocoa Nutts, a small bunch of Plantains, which they purchased of the Natives for a Shilling, and a few Shrubs for the Cattle.
Wednesday, 3rd. Soon after 12 o'Clock it fell quite Calm, which obliged us to Anchor in 18 fathoms, Muddy bottom, about 2 Miles from shore, where we found a strong Current setting to the South-West. Not long before we Anchor'd we saw a Dutch Ship laying off Anger Point, on board which I sent Mr. Hicks to enquire after News.* (* It will be recollected that the Endeavour was now two years and two months from England, without the slightest chance of any news from home. We can imagine the anxiety and excitement on board on thus approaching civilisation, though they had no prospect of personal letters. With the frequent communication of modern times, we can scarcely realise such circumstances, and should certainly consider them as an exceeding hardship.) Upon his return he inform'd me that there were 2 Dutch Ships from Batavia, one bound for Ceylon, and the other to the Coast of Mallabar, besides a small Fly-boat or Packet, which is stationed here to carry all Packets, Letters, etc., from all Dutch Ships to Batavia; but it seems more Probable that she is stationed here to examine all Ships that pass and repass these Straits. We now first heard the agreeable news of His Majesty's Sloop The Swallow being at Batavia about 2 Years ago.* (* The Swallow, Captain Cartaret, had sailed with the Dolphin in 1766, but separated from her on emerging from the Strait of Magellan. The Dolphin had reached England some months before Cook sailed, but nothing had been heard of the Swallow, and fears were entertained of her loss.) At 7 o'Clock a breeze sprung up at South-South-West, with which we weighed and stood to the North-East between Thwart-the-way Island and the Cap:* (* Thwart-the-Way is an island that lies right across the fairway of Sunda Strait. The Cap is another smaller island that lies North-East of it.) soundings from 18 to 26 fathoms. We had but little Wind all night, and having a Strong Current against us, we got no further by 8 o'Clock in the morning than under Bantam Point. At this time the wind came to North-East, and obliged us to Anchor in 22 fathoms about 2 Miles from the Shore. The above point bore North-East by East, distant 1 League. Here we found a strong Current setting to the North-West. In the morning we saw the Dutch packet standing after us, but after the wind Shifted to the North-East she bore away. One of the Dutch Captains told Mr. Hicks yesterday that the Current sets constantly to the South-Westward, and that it would continue to set so for a Month or Six Weeks longer.
[In Sunda Strait.]
Thursday, 4th. In the P.M. had the wind at North-East by North, which obliged us to lay fast. About 6 o'Clock in the evening one of the Country Boats came alongside in which was the Commander of the Packet before mentioned; he seem'd to have 2 Motives for coming, one to take an account of the Ship, and the other to sell us refreshments, for in the Boat were Turtle, Fowls, Birds, etc., all of which they held at a pretty high Price, and had brought to a bad market, as our Savu stock was not all expended. I gave a Spanish Dollar for a small Turtle which weighed only 36 pounds. With respect to the Ship, he wanted to know her name, the Captain's, the place we came last from and were bound, as I would not see him myself. I order'd that no account should be given him from whence we came; but Mr. Hicks, who wrote the Ship's name down in his book, put down from Europe. Seeing this he expressed some surprise, and said that we might write down what we pleased, for it was of no other use than for the information of such of our Country men as might pass these Streights. At 7 o'Clock a light breeze sprung up at South-South-East, with which we got under sail. At 1 A.M. Anchor'd again, having not wind to stem the Current which we found to run 3 Knotts; at 2 o'Clock we weighed again, but, finding that we lost ground, we were obliged to Anchor in 18 fathoms, the Island Pulo Morack, which lies close under the Shore 3 Miles to the Westward of Bantam Point: bore South-East by South, distance 1 1/2 miles. Latitude observed, 5 degrees 55 minutes South.
Friday, 5th. At 5 in the P.M. we weighed with a light breeze at South-West by South, which continued not long before it fell Calm, and obliged us to Anchor again. At 1 o'Clock we weigh'd with the Land wind at South-South-East, which died away in the Morning, and the Current running strong against us we Anchor'd in 17 fathoms. A little before this, a Proe came alongside, wherein was a Dutch Officer who came upon the same business as the other. He sent me down a printed paper in English containing 9 Articles or Questions, of which this is a Copy.
"The Commanders and Officers of the Ships where this Paper may be presented, will be pleased to answer on the following Questions: viz., 1. "To what Nation the Ship belongs, and its Name. 2. "If it comes from Europe or any other place. 3. "From what place it lastly departed from. 4. "Where unto design'd to go. 5. "What, and how many, ships of the Dutch Company by departure from the last shore there lay'd, and their names. 6. "If one or more of these ships in Company with this is departed for this or any other place. 7. "If during the Voyage any particularity is hapned or seen. 8. "If not any ships in Sea, or the Streights of Sunda have seen or Hail'd in, and which. 9. "If any other News worth Attention at the place from whence the Ship lastly departed or during the vogage is hapned.
"Batavia in the Castle, the By Order of the Governor General and the Counselors of India.
"J. BRANDER BUNGL, Sect."
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End of part 33 of 37
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