Captain Cook's Journal During His First Voyage · James Cook
Friday, 9th. Gentle breezes at South and South-South-East, hazey Cloudy weather. In the P.M. 3 Canoes came off to the Ship, wherein were between 30 and 40 of the Natives, who had been pulling after us sometime. It appeared from the behaviour of these people that they had heard of our being upon the Coast, for they came alongside, and some of them on board the Ship, without shewing the least signs of fear. They were no sooner on board than they asked for Nails, but when Nails was given them they asked Tupia what they were, which was plain that they had never seen any before; yet they not only knowed how to ask for them, but know'd what use to make of them, and therefore must have heard of Nails, which they call Whow, the name of a Tool among them made generally of bone, which they use as a Chisel in making Holes, etc. These people asking so readily for Nails proves that their connections must extend as far North as Cape Kidnapper, which is 45 Leagues, for that was the Southermost place on this side the coast we had any Traffick with the Natives; and it is most probable that the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's sound got the little knowledge they seem'd to have of Iron by the Connections they may have with the Teerawhitteans bordering upon them; for we have no reason to think that the inhabitants of any part of this land had the least knowledge of Iron before we came amongst them. After a short stay these people were dismissed with proper presents, and we continued our Course along shore to the North-East until 11 o'Clock A.M., when the weather clear'd up, and we saw Cape Turnagain bearing North by East 1/4 East, distant 7 Leagues. I then called the Officers upon deck, and asked them if they were now satisfied that this land was an Island; to which they answer'd in the Affirmative, and we hauled our wind to the Eastward.* (* The Endeavour had now completely circumnavigated the North Island of New Zealand, having spent four months in the exploration. That Cook had communicated his enthusiasm to his officers is evident; or, knowing his determination to leave nothing doubtful, they would not have started the idea that the North Island might not be really an island. The natural wish after so many months' absence from civilization must have been to get back to it, and to take things for granted that would otherwise delay their progress.) At Noon our Latitude by observation was 40 degrees 55 minutes South, which is 21 Miles to the Southward of Cape Turnagain, it bearing North by East, and Cape Pallisser by this day's run bears South 43 degrees West, 19 or 20 Leagues.
Saturday, 10th. Gentle breezes at South-East and Cloudy weather. At 4 P.M. Tack'd and stood South-West until 8 A.M., when being not above 3 or 4 Miles from the Shore we Tack'd, and stood off 2 hours, and then stood again to the South-West until noon, when being in the Latitude of 41 degrees 13 minutes South, and about 2 Miles from the Shore, the land of Cape Pallisser bearing South 53 degrees West, had 26 fathoms of water.
Sunday, 11th. P.M. had light breeze from the South-East. In the night it was Calm until 9 a.m., when a Gentle breeze sprung up at East-North-East, with which we made sail to the Southward, having a large swell rolling in from that Quarter. At Noon was in the Latitude of 41 degrees 6 minutes South, distant from the Shore 1 1/2 Leagues; a remarkable hillock,* (* Castle Point.) which stands close to the Sea, bore North 1/2 East, distance 4 Leagues. At this time 2 Canoes came alongside the Ship, with whom we had some little Traffic, and then dismissed them.
Monday, 12th. Most part of P.M. had a fresh breeze at North-East, which by sunset carried us the length of Cape Pallisser, and as the weather was clear I had an opportunity of Viewing the land of this Cape, which is of a height Sufficient to be seen in clear weather 12 or 14 Leagues, and is of a broken and hilly surface. Between the foot of the high land and the Sea is a border of low, flat land, off which lies some rocks, that appear above water. Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain the land near the shore is in many places low and flatt, and appear'd green and pleasant; but inland are many Hills. From Cape Pallisser to Cape Teerawhitte the land is tollerable high, making in Table-points, and the Shore forms 2 Bays; at least it appear'd so, for we were always too far off this part of the Coast to be particular.* (* The northern of these was the entrance to Port Nicholson, the harbour of Auckland.) The wind continued at North-East until 12 at Night, when it died away, and veer'd round to the West, and afterwards to South and South-South-East little wind, so that by noon we had advanced no farther than 41 degrees 52 minutes South Latitude. Cape Pallisser bearing North, distant 5 Leagues, and the Snowy mountain bore South 83 degrees West.
Tuesday, 13th. P.M. light Airs at South-East, the remainder Calm. At Noon found ourselves in the Latitude of 42 degrees 2 minutes South, Cape Pallisser bearing North 20 degrees East, distant 8 Leagues.
Wednesday, 14th. P.M. a fresh breeze sprung up at North-East, and we Steer'd South-West by West for the Southermost land we had in sight, which bore from us at sunset South 74 degrees West. At this time we found the Variation to be 15 degrees 4 minutes East. At 8 A.M. it fell Calm; at this time we had run 21 Leagues South 58 degrees West since Yesterday at noon, which brought us abreast of the high Snowy mountain, it bearing from us North-West in this direction. It lay behind a Mountainous ridge of nearly the same height, which riseth directly from the Sea, and runs Parrallel with the Shore, which lies North-East 1/2 North and South-West 1/2 South. The North-East end of the ridge takes its rise but a little way inland from Cape Campbell. These mountains are distinctly seen both from Cape Koamaroo and Cape Pallisser, being distant from the former South-West 1/2 South 22 Leagues, and from the Latter West-South-West 30 Leagues: but they are of a height sufficient to be seen at a much greater distance. By some on board they are thought to be much higher than the Peak of Teneriffe, which I cannot agree to; neither do I think them so high as Mount Egmont, on the South-West Coast of Aeheinomouwe, founding my opinion on the summit of the Latter being almost wholy covered with Snow, whereas it only lies upon these in patches.* (* The highest peak of the Kaikoura Mountains, Mount Tapuaepuka, is 9500 feet high. It is therefore higher than Mount Egmont, but not so high as the Peak of Teneriffe. The snow lies thicker on the western side of New Zealand mountains, so Cook's parallel was fallacious. The Endeavour was now near the Kaikoura Peninsula, where a small town stands at the present day, the shipping port of an agricultural district.) At noon was in the Latitude of 42 degrees 34 minutes South; the Southermost land we had in sight bore South-West 1/2 West, and some low land that made like an Island lying close under the foot of the Ridge North-West by North, distant about 5 or 6 Leagues.
Thursday, 15th. In the P.M. 4 Double Canoes, in which were 57 Men, came off to the Ship; they kept at the distance of about a Stone's throw from us, and would not be prevailed upon to put alongside by all that Tupia could say to them. From this we concluded that they never had heard of our being upon the coast. At 8 p.m. a breeze sprung up at South-South-West, with which we Stretched off South-East, because some on board thought they saw land in that Quarter. We continued on this course until 6 A.M., at which time we had run 11 Leagues, but saw no land but that which we had left. Soon after this it fell calm, and continued so for an hour; then a light breeze sprung up at West, which afterwards veer'd to the North, and we stood to the Westward. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 42 degrees 56 minutes South, and the High Land we were abreast of yesterday at Noon, North-North-West 1/2 West.
Friday, 16th. In the P.M. had a light breeze North-East, with which we steer'd West, edging in for the land, which was distant from us about 8 Leagues. At 7 o'Clock the Southermost Extream of the land in sight bore West-South-West, being about 6 Leagues from the Shore; soon after this it fell Calm, and continued so most part of the night, with sometimes light Airs from the land. At daylight we discover'd land bearing South by West, and seemingly detached from the Coast we were upon; at 8 o'Clock a breeze sprung up at North by East, and we steer'd directly for it. At Noon was in the Latitude of 43 degrees 19 minutes South; the Peak on the Snowy Mountains bore North 20 degrees East, distant 27 Leagues; the Southern Extremity we could see of that land bore West, and the land discover'd in the morning, making like an Island, extending from South-South-West to South-West by West 1/2 West, distant about 8 Leagues; our Course and distance sail'd since yesterday at Noon South-West by West, 43 Miles; Variation by this Morning's Amplitude 14 degrees 39 minutes East.
[Off Banks Peninsula, New Zealand.]
Saturday, 17th. P.M. stood to the Southward for the land above mention'd, with the wind at North, a fresh breeze and Clear weather. At 8 o'Clock we had run 11 Leagues since Noon, when the land extended from South-West by West to North by West, being distant from the nearest shore about 3 or 4 Leagues; in this situation had 50 fathoms, a fine sandy bottom. Soon after this it fell Calm, and continued so until 6 A.M., when a light breeze sprung up at North-West, which afterwards veer'd to North-East. At sun rise, being very Clear, we plainly discover'd that the last mentioned land was an Island by seeing part of the Land of Tovy-poenammu open to the Westward of it, extending as far as West by South. At 8 o'Clock the Extreams of the Island bore North 76 degrees West and North-North-East 1/2 East, and an opening that had the Appearance of a Bay or Harbour, lying near the South point North 20 degrees West, distant 3 or 4 Leagues, being in 38 fathoms, a brown Sandy bottom. This Island,* (* It is not an island, but a mountainous peninsula, still called after Mr. Banks, but from the lowness of the land it adjoins, looks like an island. On the north side is the fine harbour of Lyttelton, the port of Christchurch, a town of nearly 40,000 inhabitants. The harbour on the south side, that Cook saw, is Akaroa, a magnificent port.) which I have named after Mr. Banks, lies about 5 Leagues from the Coast of Tovy poenammu; the South point bears South 21 degrees West from the higher peak on the Snowy Mountain so often mention'd, and lies in the Latitude of 43 degrees 52 minutes South and in the Longitude of 186 degrees 30 minutes West, by observations made of the Sun and Moon this morning. It is of a circular figure, and may be about 24 Leagues in Compass; the land is of a height sufficient to be seen 12 or 15 Leagues, and of a very broken, uneven Surface, and hath more the appearance of barrenness than fertility. Last night we saw smoke up it, and this morning some people, and therefore must be inhabited. Yesterday Lieutenant Gore, having the Morning Watch at the time we first saw this Island, thought he saw land bearing South-South-East and South-East by East; but I, who was upon Deck at the same time, was very Certain that it was only Clouds, which dissipated as the Sun rose. But neither this, nor the running 14 Leagues to the South, nor the seeing no land to the Eastward of us in the Evening, could Satisfy Mr. Gore but what he saw in the morning was, or might be, land; altho' there was hardly a possibility of its being so, because we must have been more than double the distance from it at that time to what we were either last night or this morning, at both of which times the weather was Exceeding Clear, and yet we could see no land either to the Eastward or Southward of us. Notwithstanding all this, Mr. Gore was of the same opinion this morning; upon this I order'd the Ship to be wore, and to be steer'd East-South-East by Compass on the other Tack, the point on which he said the land bore at this time from us.* (* Another instance of the general desire to leave nothing unexplored.) At Noon we were in the Latitude of 44 degrees 7 minutes South; the South point of Banks Island bore North, distant 5 Leagues.
Sunday, 18th. Gentle breezes at North and fair weather. P.M. stood East-South-East in search of Mr. Gore's imaginary land until 7 o'clock, at which time we had run 28 Miles since Noon; but seeing no land but that we had left, or signs of any, we bore away South by West, and continued upon that Course until Noon, when we found ourselves in the Latitude of 45 degrees 16 minutes South. Our Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday is South 8 minutes East, 70 Miles; the South point of Banks Island North 6 degrees 30 minutes West, distant 28 Leagues; Variation per Amplitude this Morning 15 degrees 30 minutes. Seeing no signs of Land, I thought it to no purpose standing any farther to the Southward, and therefore hauled to the Westward, thinking we were far enough to the Southward to weather all the land we had left; but this opinion was only founded on the information we had had from the Natives of Queen Charlotte's sound.* (* The ship was still 250 miles from the south point of New Zealand.)
Monday, 19th. P.M. had a Moderate breeze at North-North-West and North until 8 o'clock, when it fell little wind, and was very unsettled until 10, at which time it fix'd at South, and freshen'd in such a manner that before the morning it brought us under our close reeft Topsails. At 8 a.m. having run 28 Leagues upon a West by North 1/2 North Course, and now judging ourselves to be to the Westward of the Land of Tovy Poenammu, we bore away North-West with a fresh Gale at South. At 10 o'clock, having run 11 Miles upon this Course, we saw land extending from the South-West to the North-West at the distance of about 10 Leagues from us, which we hauled up for. At Noon our Latitude per observation was 44 degrees 38 minutes South; the South-East point of Banks Island bore North 59 degrees 30 minutes East, distant 30 Leagues, and the Main body of the land in sight West by North. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday at Noon is North 66 degrees 45 minutes West, 96 Miles.
[Off Timaru, Middle Island, New Zealand.]
Tuesday, 20th. All P.M. had little wind, which veer'd round from South by East to North-North-East. Steer'd South-South-West, but got very little to the Southward on account of a head Sea. At 2 o'Clock sounded in 35 fathoms, fine sandy Bottom, being about 6 Leagues from the land. At 7 o'Clock the Extreams of the land extending from South-West by South to North by West, distant from the nearest shore 6 Leagues, depth of water 32 fathoms. At 12 o'Clock it fell Calm, and continued so until 4 A.M., when a fresh breeze sprung up at South by West, with which we stood in shore West by South, 4 Leagues, our Depth of Water from 32 to 13 fathoms. In this last Depth we Tack'd and Stood off, being about 3 Miles from the Shore, which lies nearly North and South, and is here very low and flatt, and continues so up to the skirts of the hills, which are at least 4 or 5 Miles inland. The whole face of the Country appears barren, nor did we see any signs of inhabitants.* (* This is a little south of Timaru, a rising town in a fertile district; so deceptive is appearance from the sea.) Latitude at Noon 44 degrees 44 minutes South; Longitude made from Banks' Island to this land 2 degrees 22 minutes West.
Wednesday, 21st. Wind at South. A fresh Gale at 2 p.m., being in 50 fathoms, and 12 Leagues from the land, we tack'd and stood in Shore until 8 o'Clock, when we Tack'd and Stood off until 4 a.m.; then Tack'd and Stood in, at 8 o'Clock being 10 Leagues from the Land; had 57 fathoms. At Noon, being in the Latitude 44 degrees 35 minutes, and 5 or 6 Leagues from the land, had 36 fathoms; notwithstanding we have Carried as much sail as the Ship could bear, it is apparent from the observed Latitudes that we have been drove 3 Leagues to leeward since Yesterday.
Thursday, 22nd. Moderate breezes between the South-East and South by West, and dark gloomy weather, with a Swell from the South-East plying to windward, keeping between 4 and 12 Leagues from the land; depth of water from 35 to 53 fathoms, fine sandy bottom. A great many Sea fowl and Grampusses about the Ship. In the A.M. Condemn'd 60 fathoms of the B.B. Cable,* (* B.B. stands for Best Bower, one of the principal cables. The hempen cables of those days were a continual cause of solicitude, and required great care.) and converted it into Junk; at Noon had no Observation, but by the land judged ourselves to be about 3 Leagues farther North than Yesterday.
Friday, 23rd. Winds Southerly, a Gentle breeze, and for the most part Cloudy weather. At sunset, the weather clearing up, presented to our View a high peaked Mountain* (* There are so many lofty mountains in this region that it is impossible to identify this. This ship was now no farther south than she had been five days earlier.) bearing North-West by North, and at the same time we saw the Land more Distincter than at any time we had before, extending from North to South-West by South, the inland parts of which appear'd to be high and Mountainous. We cannot tell yet whether or no this land joins to, or makes a part of, the land we have left; from the accounts received from the Natives of Queen Charlotte's sound it ought not, because if it did it must have been impossible for us to have sail'd round it in 4 Days; besides, the Mountains inland and the soundings off the Coast seem to indicate this Country to be more extensive than any they spoke of lying to the Southward. Having a large hollow swell from the South-East, which made me expect the Wind from the same quarter, we keept plying from 7 to 15 Leagues from the land, depth of Water 44 to 70 fathoms; at Noon our Latitude, by Observation, was 44 degrees 40 minutes South; Longitude made from Banks's Island 1 degree 31 minutes West.
Saturday, 24th. Calm until 6 p.m., at which time a light breeze sprung up at East-North-East, with which we steer'd South-South-East all night, edging off from the Land because of a hollow swell which we had from the South-East; depth of water from 60 to 75 fathoms. At daylight the wind began to freshen, and before noon blowed a fresh Gale, and veer'd to North-North-East; at 8 a.m. Saw the land extending as far as South-West by South, which we steer'd directly for, and at Noon we were in the Latitude of 45 degrees 22 minutes South; the land in sight extending from South-West 1/2 South to North-North-West making high and hilly. Course and distance run since Yesterday at Noon is South 15 degrees West, 47 Miles. In the P.M., while we lay becalm'd, Mr. Banks, in a small Boat, shott 2 Port Egmont Hens, which were in every respect the same sort of Birds as are found in great Numbers upon the Island of Faro; they are of a very dark brown plumage, with a little white about the under side of their wings, and are as large as a Muscovy Duck. These were the first that we have seen since we arrived upon the Coast of this Country, but we saw of them for some days before we made land.
[Off Otago, Middle Island, New Zealand.]
Sunday, 25th. In the P.M. Steer'd South-West by South and South-West, edging in for the land, having the Advantage of a fresh Gale at North, which I was over desirous of making the most of, and by that means carried away the Maintop Gallant Mast and Foretopmast Steering Sail Boom; but these were soon replaced by others. Altho' we keept at no great Distance from the Shore, yet the weather was so Hazey that we could see nothing distinct upon the land, only that there were a ridge of Pretty high Hills lying Parrallel with, and but a little way from, the Sea Coast, which lies South by West and North by East, and seem'd to End in a high Bluff point to the Southward, which we run the length of by 8 o'Clock, when, being dark, and not knowing which way the Land Trended, we brought too for the night, having run 15 Leagues upon a South-West 1/2 West Course since Noon. The point bore at this time West, distant about 5 Miles, depth of Water 37 fathoms, the bottom small pebble stones. At 4 A.M. we made Sail, but by this time the Northerly wind was gone, and was succeeded by one from the Southward, which proved very Var'ble and unsteady. At day light the point above mention'd bore North, distant 3 Leagues, and we found that the land trended away from it South-West by West, as far as we could see. This point of land I have Named Cape Saunders, in Honour of Sir Charles* (* Admiral Sir Charles Saunders was First Lord of the Admiralty in 1766. He commanded the fleet at the capture of Quebec in 1759, in which Cook served.) (Latitude 45 degrees 55 minutes South; Longitude 189 degrees 4 minutes West). It requires no discription to know it by, the Latitude and the Angle made here by the Coast will be found quite sufficient; however, there is a remarkable saddle hill laying near the Shore, 3 or 4 Leagues South-West of the Cape. From 1 to 4 Leagues North of the Cape the Shore seem'd to form 2 or 3 Bays, wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage and Shelter from South-West, Westerly, and North-West winds.* (* One of these is Otago Harbour, where lies Dunedin, perhaps the most important commercial city in New Zealand.) I had some thoughts of bearing up for one of these places in the morning when the Wind came to South-West, but the fear of loosing time and the desire I had of pushing to the Southward, in order to see as much of the Coast as possible, or, if this land should prove to be an Island, to get round it, prevented me. Being not far from the Shore all this morning, we had an Opportunity of Viewing the Land pretty distinctly; it is of a Moderate height, full of Hills, which appear'd green and Woody, but we saw not the least signs of inhabitants. At Noon Cape Saunders bore North 30 degrees West, distant 4 Leagues. Latitude per Log, for we had no Observation, 46 degrees 0 minutes South.
Monday, 26th. In the P.M. had the wind Whifling all round the Compass, sometimes blowing a fresh Gale, and at other times almost Calm. At 5 o'Clock it fixed at West-South-West, and soon blow'd so hard as to put us past our Topsails, and to split the foresail all to pieces. After getting another to the Yard, we continued standing to the Southward under 2 Courses. At 1 A.M. the wind Moderating, set the Topsails with one Reef out; but soon after day light the Gale increased to a Storm, with heavy Squalls, attended with rain. This brought us again under our Courses, and the Main Topsail being Split we unbent it and bent another. At 6 o'Clock the Southermost land in sight bore West by North, and Cape Saunders bore North by West, distant 8 Leagues; at Noon it bore North 20 minutes West, distant 14 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 35 minutes.
Tuesday, 27th. A very hard gale at South-West by West, and West-South-West, with heavy squalls attended with Showers of rain, and a large hollow sea, without the least intermission the whole of this 24 Hours. We continued under our Courses from Noon until 7 P.M., when we handed the Mainsail, and lay too under the Foresail with the head to the Southward. Latitude at Noon 46 degrees 54 minutes; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 24 minutes East.
Wednesday, 28th. Strong Gale at South-West, with a large Sea from the Same quarter. At 7 p.m. made sail under the Courses; at 8 a.m. set the Topsails close reefed. At Noon, being in the Latitude of 47 degrees 43 minutes South, and Longitude East from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 10 minutes, wore and stood to the Northward.
[March 1770.]
Thursday, March 1st. Winds between the South-West and North-North-West, a fresh gale. In the P.M. found the Variation to be 16 degrees 34 minutes East. At 8 Tack'd and Stood to the Southward, with the wind at West, which before the morning veer'd to North-West, accompanied with hazey weather and drizzling rain; at day light loosed a reef out of Each Topsail, and set some of the small sails. At Noon our Latitude by account was 47 degrees 52 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 8 minutes East.
Friday, 2nd. Strong Gales from the West, with heavy Squalls, attended with showers of rain. In the P.M. Stood to the Southward till half-past 3, when being in the Latitude 48 degrees 0 minutes South and Longitude 188 degrees 00 minutes West, and seeing no Visible signs of Land, we Tack'd and Stood to the Northward, having a very large swell from the South-West by West. Soon after we tack'd we close reef'd the Topsails, and in the night were obliged to hand them, but at day light set them again. At Noon our Latitude by Observation was 46 degrees 42 minutes South, Cape Saunders bearing North 46 degrees West, distant 68 Miles.
Saturday, 3rd. P.M. Wind and weather as Yesterday. A.M. quite Moderate, yet the South-West swell continues, which makes me conjecture that there is no land near in that quarter. At Noon our Latitude was 46 degrees 42 minutes South, being East of Cape Saunders 1 degree 30 minutes.
Sunday, 4th. At 4 p.m. the Wind coming to the Northward we stood to the Westward with all the sail we could make. In the morning got up Topgallant yards, and set the sails; found the Variation to be 16 degrees 16 minutes East. Saw several Whales, Seals, and one Penguin; this bird was but Small of the sort, but seem'd to be such a one as we had never seen before. We have seen several Seals since we passed the Straits, but never saw one upon the whole Coast of Aeheinomouwe. We sounded both in the Night and the morning, but found no bottom with 150 fathoms Line; at Noon we saw Cape Saunders bearing North 1/2 West; our Latitude by observation was 46 degrees 31 minutes South.* (* The Endeavour had been blown off the land for seven days, and had barely recovered her position.)
[Off South Part of Middle Island, New Zealand.]
Monday, 5th. Most part of P.M. had a fresh breeze at North by East. Half past 1 saw Land bearing West by South, which we steer'd for; before dark we were within 3 or 4 Leagues of it, and seeing no land farther to the South we were in hopes this would prove the Southern point. At 7 shortned sail, and kept under an easy sail all night, standing to the West-South-West, having the wind at North-West, and North-North-West until 2 a.m., when it fell Calm, and soon after a breeze sprung up at South-East by South, and daylight coming on we made sail. During the whole night we saw a large fire upon the land; a certain sign of its being inhabited. At 7 the Extreams of the land bore from North 38 degrees East to West 6 minutes South, being distant from the Shore about 3 Leagues. The land appear'd of a Moderate height, and not hilly. At 1/2 past 10 o'Clock the westermost land in sight bore West 1/2 North, distant 7 Leagues; at Noon had fresh Gales at South-South-East, and thick hazey weather with rain. Our Latitude by account was 46 degrees 50 minutes South, and Longitude made from Cape Saunders 1 degree 56 minutes West.* (* The ship was now off the south point of the Middle Island.)
Tuesday, 6th. P.M. Winds at South by East and South-East, and thick hazey weather until 3 o'clock, when it clear'd up, and we saw the land extending from North-East by North to North-West 1/2 North, and soon after low land, making like an Island, bearing West 1/2 South. Keeping on our Course to the West by South, we in 2 hours' time saw high land over the low, extending to the Southward as far as South-West by South; we could not see this land join to that to the Northward of us, there either being a total seperation, a deep Bay, or low land between them. At 8 o'Clock, being within 3 Leagues of the low land (which we now took to be an Island* (* Ruapuke Island.)), we Tack'd and stood to the Eastward, having the wind at South, which proved very unsettled all night; by which means, and a little bad management, I found the Ship in the morning considerably farther to the Eastward than I expected, and the wind afterwards coming to South-West and West-South-West, so that at noon we found ourselves much about the same place as we were Yesterday, our Latitude by observation being 46 degrees 50 minutes South, the land extending from North-East by East to West by North 1/2 North, the nearest part bearing North, distance 3 Leagues; the land to the South-West just in sight.
Wednesday, 7th. Light Airs in the South-West quarter. P.M. Clear weather, remainder dark and Cloudy. In the P.M. found the Variation per several Azimuths, and the Amplitude to be 15 degrees 10 minutes East, and by the Amplitude in the morning to be 15 degrees 56 minutes East. Stood to the South-East until 8 a.m., then tack'd and stood to the North-West; but it soon after fell Calm, and continued so until noon, when by our account we were in the Latitude of 47 degrees 6 minutes South, and had made 12 Miles Easting since Yesterday at Noon.
Thursday, 8th. Light Airs next to a Calm from South-South-East to North-East, with which we kept Steering to the South-West, but made but little way because of a swell which took us right ahead. At daylight A.M. we saw, or thought we saw, from the Masthead, the land which we have left to the Northward of us joined to that to the South-West of us; and at the same time we imagined we saw the land extend to the Southward as far as South-South-West; but after steering this Course until noon we discovered our Mistake, for there was no land to be seen to the Southward of West, which Course we now steer'd, being by observation in the Latitude of 47 degrees 12 minutes; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 2 degrees 2 minutes West.
[Off South Cape of New Zealand.]
Friday, 9th. P.M. Winds at North, a Gentle breeze and Clear weather. Stood to the Westward until sunset, at which time the Extreams of the land bore from North by East to West, distant about 7 or 8 Leagues; Depth of Water 55 fathoms; Variation by the Amplitude 16 degrees 29 minutes East. The wind now veer'd to the Westward, and as the weather was fine and Moonlight we kept standing close upon a Wind to the South-West all night. At 4 a.m. Sounded, and had 60 fathoms; at daylight we discover'd under our lee bow Ledges of Rocks, on which the Sea broke very high, extending from South by West to West by South, and not above 3/4 of a Mile from us; yet upon sounding we had 45 fathoms, a Rocky bottom. The wind being at North-West we could not weather the Ledge, and as I did not care to run to leeward, we tackt and made a Trip to the Eastward; but the wind soon after coming to the North enabled us to go clear of all. Our soundings in passing within the Ledge was from 35 to 47 fathoms, a rocky bottom. This Ledge lies South-East, 6 Leagues from the Southermost part of the Land, and South-East by South from some remarkable hills which stand near the Shore. These rocks are not the only dangers that lay here, for about 3 Leagues to the Northward of them is another Ledge of Rocks, laying full 3 Leagues from the land, whereon the Sea broke very high. As we passed these rocks in the night at no great distance, and discover'd the others close under our Lee at daylight, it is apparent that we had a very fortunate Escape. I have named them the Traps, because they lay as such to catch unweary Strangers.* (* The dangerous Traps lie south and east of the South Island of New Zealand. The Endeavour had now at last got to the southward of the land. There is a small but high rock farther south, the Snares, that Cook did not sight this voyage.) At Noon our Latitude per observation was 47 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude made from Cape Saunders 3 degrees 4 minutes West, the land in sight--which has very much the appearance of an Island* (* South or Stewart Island.)--extending North-East by North to North-West by West, distant from the Shore about 4 or 5 Leagues; the Eastermost ledge of rocks bore South-South-East, distant 1 1/2 Leagues; and Northermost North-East 1/2 East, 3 Leagues. This land is of a moderate height, and has a very barren Aspect; not a Tree to be seen upon it, only a few Small Shrubs. There were several white patches, on which the sun's rays reflected very strongly, which I take to be a kind of Marble such as we have seen in many places of this Country, particularly to the Northward.
Saturday, 10th. P.M. Moderate breezes at North-West by North and North with which we stood close upon a Wind to the Westward. At sunset the Southermost point of land, which I afterwards named South Cape,* (* South Cape is the southern point of Stewart Island. Cook's position for it is wonderfully exact.) and which lies in the Latitude of 47 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 12 minutes West from Greenwich, bore North 38 degrees East, distant 4 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore North 2 degrees East. This last was a small Island, lying off the point of the Main.* (* Long Island, which lies, with others, on the west side of Stewart Island.) I began now to think that this was the Southermost land, and that we should be able to get round it by the West, for we have had a large hollow swell from the South-West ever since we had the last gale of wind from that Quarter, which makes one think there is no land in that direction. In the Night it began to blow, so that at or before daylight we were brought under our 2 Courses; but at 8 a.m. it fell moderate, and we set the Topsails close Reeft, and the Mizn and Mizn Staysail being split, we unbent them and bent others. At Noon, the wind Coming at West, we Tackt and stood to the Northward, having no land in sight; our Latitude by observation was 47 degrees 33 minutes South, Longitude West from the South Cape 0 degrees 59 minutes.
Sunday, 11th. Winds between the West and North-West, a fresh Gale, and Clear weather. Stood away North-North-East close upon a wind without seeing any land until 2 A.M., when we discover'd an Island bearing North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Two hours after this we saw the Land ahead, upon which we Tackt and stood off until 6 o'Clock; then stood in, in order to take a nearer View of it. At 11, being about 3 Leagues from the land, and the wind seem'd to incline on Shore, we Tackt and stood off to the Southward. And now we thought that the land to the Southward, or that we have been sailing round these 2 days past, was an Island, because there appeared an Open Channell between the North part of that land and the South part of the other in which we thought we saw the Small Island we were in with the 6th Instant; but when I came to lay this land down upon paper from the several bearings I had taken, it appeared that there was but little reason to suppose it an Island. On the contrary, I hardly have a doubt but what it joins to, and makes a part of, the Mainland,* (* Cook was deceived, as Stewart is an island.) the Western extremity of which bore at Noon North 59 degrees West, and the Island seen in the Morning* (* This was called by Cook Solander Island.) South 59 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude observed 46 degrees 24 minutes South, Longitude 192 degrees 49 minutes West. It is nothing but a barren rock of about a Mile in Circuit, remarkably high, and lies full 5 Leagues from the Main. The shore of the Main lies nearest East by South and West by North, and forms a large open bay, in which there is no appearance of a Harbour or other place of safety for shipping against South-West and Southerly winds. The face of the Country bears a very rugged Aspect, being full of high craggy hills, on the Summits of which were several patches of Snow. However, the land is not wholy barren; we could see wood, not only in the Valleys, but on several of the Hills; but we saw no signs of inhabitants.
Monday, 12th. Fresh Gales between the West and North-West; latter part squally, with rain. Stood to the South-West by South until 11 a.m., at which time the wind shifted to the South-West by West. We wore, and stood to the North-North-West, being then in the Latitude of 47 degrees 40 minutes South, and Longitude 193 degrees 50 minutes West, having a Hollow Sea from the South-West.
Tuesday, 13th. Strong Gale between the South-West by West and South-South-West, with a large Hollow sea from the same Quarter. In the P.M. had frequent Squalls, with Showers of rain; in the night had several very heavy squalls, attended with Showers of Hail, which obliged us to take in our Topsails. During the night steer'd North-North-West until 6 a.m., when, seeing no land, we steer'd North by East, and set the Main Topsail, single reeft. At 8 set the Foretopsail, single reeft, and loosed all the Reefs out of the Maintopsail, and Steer'd North-East by East 1/2 East in order to make the land. At 10 saw it bearing East-North-East, and appeared to be very high; but, being hazey over it, we could see nothing distinct neither now nor at Noon, when, by Observation, we were in the Latitude of 46 degrees 0 minutes South. Course and distance Sailed since Yesterday North 5 degrees West, 96 Miles. Longitude made from the South Cape 1 degree 40 minutes West.
[Off the New Zealand Sounds.]
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End of part 21 of 37
Continue readingChapter 6: Exploration of Middle Island of New Zealand (Part 3)
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